The Rolling Stones demand that Shein’s merchandising department end its contract with Shein. i alerted the band to allegations of labour abuse in the Chinese company’s supply chain.
The world’s biggest clothes retailer had boasted on Friday that it was “proud to announce” the deal for a “licenced collection honouring the legendary rock band”.
The range includes a T-shirt featuring a dinosaur print to celebrate the group’s 60th anniversary, priced at £4.49, as well as a £1.50 mobile phone case and a £5 cap, all bearing the famous Rolling Stones tongue-and-lips logo.
The items went on sale last week – less than two months after an undercover investigation revealed that garment manufacturers in two Chinese factories making clothes for Shein were often working up to 18 hours a day, being paid as little as 3p per item, with no weekends and only one day off per month.
The findings from Channel 4’s documentary Untold: Inside Shein Machine – first reported by i Mid-October – prompted widespread outrage and concern.
It is understood that the “Shein x Rolling Stones” deal was signed by Bravado International Group Merchandising Services, Inc. Bravado is owned by Universal Music Group, which bought worldwide rights to the Stones brand, as well as their back catalogue of recorded music and video, in 2018.
After being challenged by the band on Monday regarding the ethics of the new range, in light of concerns about labour conditions, they demanded that the deal be ended.
A spokesperson for The Rolling Stones said: “We would like to thank iWe appreciate you bringing this to our attention. Bravado Inc has agreed to a licencing agreement and can use the brand’s name on merchandise.
“We do not want to be associated with Shein, having been made aware of the recent revelations about the treatment of workers in its supply chain, and have requested the line be terminated.”
This news will make it more difficult for other artists, businesses, and influencers to cut ties with Shein.
In the days after the Channel 4 investigation aired, Georgia Portogallo, who runs an influencer agency, said she would no longer work with the brand having learnt of the “horrendous” allegations.
The former Made in Chelsea Georgia Toffolo, a star of the company’s promotional campaigns, is reported to have also left.
But other firms such as the payments company Klarna – which has been a partner with Shein for clothing collections and pop-up stores, including this year in London’s Covent Garden and in Berlin, and is promoted on the retailer’s website – have refused to comment on allegations against the firm.
Dominique Muller, policy lead at the ethical fashion campaign group Labour Behind the Label, said: “It is great to see decisive action from The Rolling Stones in calling for the end of their merchandise deal with Shein, after becoming aware of such worrying conditions in factories making clothes for the brand.
“This deal highlights the potential pitfalls for celebrities and influencers who sign up to ‘collaborations’ with companies working in the fast-fashion industry, which is routinely exposed for exploiting its workers.
“We urge all businesses to carry out thorough due diligence with clothing firms before signing any contracts, to ensure that labour abuse is not carried out in their name and to line their pockets. We call on those who have existing contracts with Shein to put principles first, to make sure there is real improvement for the thousands of workers toiling in poverty for big corporations.”
It was aware that the Stones deal was concluded in the early months of this year, several months before the Channel 4 investigation aired. Shein was exposed by Swiss researchers last year, when workers at its factories told them they had been working 75-hour work weeks.
Universal’s code of conduct states: “As a responsible, global industry leader, we take steps to protect human rights in everything we do, including choosing business partners who share our commitment to respecting human rights and doing business with integrity.”
It pledges: “We treat all people with dignity and respect by: Never tolerating human rights abuses such as child labor, slavery, human trafficking and unsafe or unfair work practices at our operations; Conducting business with partners, suppliers and customers who share our commitment to protecting human rights; Speaking up when we see or suspect human rights violations.”
Universal was contacted for comment.
Shein said the new range of 59 products was being launched after the “overwhelming success” of an earlier line of Stones merchandise and would “channel the band’s genuine spirit of rock and roll”.
Shein was contacted by The Rolling Stones to comment on their request for a halt to their merchandise deal.
It previously said it is “absolutely committed” to its supplier code of conduct, which “complies with the core conventions of the International Labour Organisation”. In a statement regarding the Channel 4 investigation, it said last month: “Shein engages industry-leading third-party agencies to conduct regular audits of suppliers’ facilities to ensure compliance.
“Suppliers are given a specific timeframe in which to remediate the violations, failing which, Shein takes immediate action against the supplier, including terminating the partnership.”