A version of this article ran in the December issue of Bicycle Retailer & Industry News.
HILDEBRAN, N.C. (BRAIN) — DeFeet founder Shane Cooper fondly remembers when the brand’s socks were “the currency of the trade shows” in the 1990s as industry types would trade them among themselves.
It was back in the days when DeFeet was a unique custom cycling sock manufacturer and before China entered into the production scene with cheaper production. Cooper’s insistent manufacturing in the country was not understood by many in the industry. His vision was to create “microsockery”, true to his core principles of sustainability and performance.
DeFeet celebrated its 30th birthday in November. All the company’s nylon, poly and lycra are sourced within an 80 mile radius of its headquarters. DeFeet also uses Repreve, a recycled performance fiber. Cooper was excited to tell BRAIN that DeFeet has been awarded Responsible Wool Standard certification. This certification is voluntary and addresses the welfare of sheep as well as the land on which they graze. DeFeet’s wool comes from Shaniko Farms, Oregon.
“The wool then travels to South Carolina. It is washed there, then it goes to Valdese (North Carolina) to get dyed. Finally, it goes back to South Carolina to be spun into yarn. RWS certification will cover the entire wool supply chain from the ranch to the end consumer. This certification is a first in the industry.
DeFeet purchased wool from New Zealand fifteen years ago and sent it to China for washing, dyeing, and to Canada to be spun.
DeFeet believes that sustainability is an industry standard. They also aim to make performance socks and offer small-batch custom options with logos for customers and brands.
Cooper spoke from his office about an hour east to Asheville, saying that what we liked about domestic manufacturing was the control we had, the small production and the ability to reinvent the cycling socks.
The birth of the Aireator
Cooper explained that DeFeet was the one who created the Aireator. He switched the nylon from the outside for strength and durability, while keeping the CoolMax soft fibres against his foot. “The inside was soft and allowed for the foot’s sweat to escape. To allow the vapor out, we also created the Aireator mesh weave. This mimicked a bicycle shoe. These little vents let vapor escape from your feet, so you would feel your foot sweat. This was our secret recipe, and everyone loved it.
Nearly all of DeFeet’s products are made in its factory covering 50,000 square feet. The brand’s most distinctive product was the sock. Johan Museeuw from Belgium won the road championship wearing DeFeet socks in 1996.
Cooper stated that Team Quickstep was with Cooper and they were at the Tour de France. “So many things were taking place at the pinnacle. Our products were available for testing by athletes. The yarn companies instantly loved us, as we were small and agile, and they could use our new yarns to test them on the athletes. It was really exciting to be recognized instantly and have our manufacturing done here.
Cooper indicated that DeFeet also has relationships beyond cycling, including golf, motorcycle, and equestrian. They are fit and want socks that perform.”
QBP, HLC and DeFeet are distributors of the brand, as well as manufacturing socks for around 50 private-label firms, but it also offers a portal that allows dealers to access the brand directly, without minimums. Cooper is working to spread the word about its 300 strong direct IBD network. The brand makes about half its revenue from custom orders for small events and teams.
It’s not a standard sock. It’s a custom made sock using our technology. I’m confident that IBDs will find it. Our footprint is small. And it’s responsible. If I have a bike shop, I will always put socks next to the shoes. I tell people to put socks at the counter or try new socks. I know that I’m going big on socks. That product will make me a 50%-60% profit.
Like a lot of the industry, DeFeet has had to raise prices — 20% last year — partly in response to supplier costs increasing and raising pay during the pandemic to retain its workforce, which numbers 35, Cooper said. Cooper explained that production has slowed down in recent quarters due to decreasing demand. DeFeet’s consumer website, which accounted for about 25% of direct-to–consumer sales, was a “savior”, he said.
“Our bike shops need to survive and thrive, and with all the consolidation going on, I’d love to see an independent man stand up. We are a small business, just like them.
DeFeet sales increased by 12% during the pandemic and dropped by 2% in 2021. DeFeet announced in Sept that it has entered into a multiyear partnership with Trek Factory Racing to outfit its cyclocross- and cross-country teams.
Cooper smiled and said that “the great thing about a bicycle sock” is that even in bad times, you can still buy new handlebar tape, new socks and go riding.
A brand can be transformed by a new machine. Cooper purchased a direct printer for garments in 2019, which allows for greater customization and more detail than knitting. DeFeet was able to create PrintMySock portal that allows customers to design one pair of DeFeet socks.
Cooper stated that “the knitting technology is unbelievable, but this printing tech is space age.”
Chasing performance
DeFeet doesn’t just care about technology, but also sustainability. Cooper continues to chase the carrot of proven performance. DeFeet thought it was over sponsoring the Tour de France and World Cup teams when a different company took over its 20-plus year Quickstep partnership. Lotto-Soudal called back 2020 to inform him that it had successfully tested the DeFeet aireator socks in a London wind- tunnel and was interested in working with the brand.
DeFeet had previously been able to show in its own wind-tunnel test with Quickstep, that its sock saves 8 watts. That’s 4 watts more then the popular cut and sewn socks in England.
Cooper explained that “Suddenly, there were 12 watts saved by a Dutch company using their socks.” I had to call BS because they used a mannequin for the wind tunnel test and didn’t use yaw. (Yaw refers to the vertical Z axis that positions the rider in relation to the wind. 8 Watts were achieved using a real rider. So, we are now going back to the wind tunnel. Based on what we learned in 2018 as well as what we have learned with Lotto-Soudal since then, we are now working to make the world’s fastest socks again. We are hopeful to see that during the Tour de France.
Cooper smiles as he looks back at the past 30 years and says that he is happy with DeFeet’s achievements, including sustainability and performance enhancements, and even being able to survive a 2001 fire that destroyed DeFeet’s building, which halted production for nine month.
Cooper stated, “Luckily my wife Hope is a financial wizard.” “Don’t give me money — I can make it, but she knows how to save it — and luckily 30 years later, we’re still in business.”