When you think of top-quality knitwear, the legacy names likely first come to mind—from Loro Piana to Brunello Cucinelli. Perhaps even The Row, with its oversized blanket sweaters (opens in a new tab and shrouding turtlenecks (opens in a new tabThis should be on your priority list. It’s a reliable classic. When you turn to a Missoni or Marni, you know you’re getting pristine craftsmanship and will have a great sweater (opens in a new tab You can add to your collection. But the next generation of knitwear designers has arrived—and they don’t necessarily play by the old rules.
The top knitwear brands today are reinventing the industry and taking it in a new direction. They’re not just creating exquisitely-crafted knits (of which they do), but they are also ensuring that the industry listens to their opinions and practices.
Here are seven top knitwear stars. Learn how they are changing the scene and how you can be a part of the future of knitwear.
Nong Rak
(Image credit to Nong Rak
Cherry and Home Phuangfueang know the past couple of years haven’t been easy. The grief, trauma, and constant upheaval, those ‘Incredibly exciting times’ and ‘New normals’—the Thai-American design duo is here to provide a reprieve from all that strife. “Clothing can be really emotional,” Cherry tells Maire Claire. “So an important aspect of our brand Nong Rak (opens in a new tab This was done to emphasize the tactile nature and therapeutic value of wearables in today’s digitalized and industrialized world.
The Phuangfueangs’ work is sentimental and reassuring—like a hug from your mom, assuaging your worries and letting you know everything will be alright. And the pieces produced by the married couple (Nong Rak is Thai for ‘young love’—How cute, right?) They are a great way to soothe your soul. Fuzzy wool with a cotton candy-like texture; cocooning jumpers in colorful stripes, cozy scarves (opens in a new tabYou will love bonnets that you can wrap around like a baby.
“Much of it,” Cherry explains, “is letting the materials tell the story first with details, like their colors and textures, paying homage to the animals the fibers are trimmed from, the sincerity of the design, etc., and how these can ultimately influence feelings in the wearer.” This thoughtful approach is best observed in the 2018-launched label’s mohair pieces, a combination of deadstock yarn and new wool spun from Angora goats. You perhaps saw the brand’s lively mohair pieces—think textured balaclavas, kinetic sweater dresses, and floppy berets—in a recent Spring 2022 collaboration with Heaven by Marc Jacobs (opens in a new tabThe internet devoured it like candy.
“We spend a lot of our time sourcing the best quality modern mohair yarns from small, U.S. farms with the well-being of the animals at the top of our priorities. We want to make sure our pieces are made from well-loved animals’ wool, and we hope that can be felt in the caressing qualities of our work,” says Cherry. “The process is very long,” chimes in Home, “and takes a lot of muscle since the garments have to be very carefully hand-teased and brushed,” explains the Bangkok-born designer, who does all the brand’s post-knitting production.
Despite having developed a recognizable brand code (a rare feat worth celebrating), don’t expect mohair wool to be all you see from Nong Rak. “We’re evolving with each step,” says Home, and spontaneity remains paramount for the couple. “The spontaneous, creative process of Nong Rak is a driving force and one of the main reasons why we’re so focused on hand-craft and sentimentality in our work,” describes Cherry. “And through experimentation, we slowly find directions that are most meaningful to us.”
Nong Rak Palette Knit Wool Sleeveless Hoody
Nong Rak Mohair Knit Arm/Leg Warmer
Lukhanyo Mdingi
(Image credit: Lukhanyo Mdingi)
“There’s a certain kind of honesty and sincerity with what we do, and I think it comes down to not just the craft, but the human hands behind the craft,” designer Lukhanyo Mdingi (opens in a new tab He explains that his tone is just as gentle as his words. Cape Town-based designer Mdingi was a joint recipient of the 2021 LVMH Karl Lagerfeld Prize. His presence in knitwear has made him a prominent figure for reminding people about the artisans behind his work. Mdingi doesn’t want to make a perfect sweater by a machine. Instead, he wants you to understand that his clothing was made with love and by someone who feels a strong connection to the craft.
“The provenance and quality of craft and textiles are really important to us,” says the nominee for 2021 LVMH Prize. He draws significant inspiration from South Africa’s rich history in Merino wool production and Angora goat breeding. “More important than any other, I wanted to explore how I could bring that strong history in my culture to our clothing development.”
Mdingi’s humanity-driven approach to luxury fashion feels subversive, considering that luxury fashion is a highly exclusive industry. “It’s not often that I’m able to align with amazing artisans that are committed to the spirit of craft as it is part of their tradition. This is why it’s so important for us to reflect that in our brand. We want that spirit to be felt along with the essence and beauty of the textile. He says it’s about introducing the human element and sensibility to contemporary design.
He emphasizes that his South African heritage plays an important role in his work. A large portion of his clothing is handcrafted using the country’s eastern, western and southern capes. However, the label does not remain in one area of the world. He says that the brand is international. “We don’t relate to one space of manufacture.” He also explains how he partners with Italian producers for pieces that are more industrially produced.
Mdingi details: “With these partnership, our brand can achieve this hybrid that is not only refined, but also has an sincere and honest spirit which comes down the inherent craft element in knitwear.” It’s the collaborative spirit that I seek in our brand DNA as well as the pieces.
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Lukhanyo Mdingi Wool-Silk Sweater Vest
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Lukhanyo Mdingi Colorblocked Wool-Silk Sweaterdress
Roberta Einer
(Image credit: Roberta Einer)
The Roberta Einer (Opens in a new tab Kylie Jenner is a woman. Megan Fox is her stylist and Jorja Smith is her hairdresser. She wears sweater dresses with rib-revealing cut-outs and flirty crochet mini skirts (Opens in a new tab These are far from the granny triangles you’re used too. Her style exudes an unapologetic sense of sex. She’s also a sexy, confident woman. You—whoever that might be.
Marie Claire is told by Einer over Zoom that if you are open to experimentation, and have an interest in fashion, you can join the club. The University of Westminster and Central Saint Martins graduate smiles, “Our brand is meant for a variety of women: From Swedish girls who live in Atlanta to girls who travel to the French Riviera or party in Miami,” she said. “It’s for strong women who, when you look at them in our clothing—which has a lot of character— it doesn’t feel like it’s wearing them. They’re You can see their empowerment by wearing the clothes. As a combination, all of this is Roberta Einer.
Although the label, based in London, is six years old, it only began to gather its diverse, supportive group of followers in 2020. This was during the dark days of pandemic, when you couldn’t do much but scroll on your phone. “Through social media we created a network of people who dreamt about a better lifestyle after COVID,” shared the Estonian designer.
Einer, who was trained at Alexander McQueen and Balmain, is now an expert in Instagram dressing. You’ve Definitely seen her signature Bianca gown (opens in a new tab, a backless, asymmetrical knit number laced with sheer panels (opens in a new tab You can see it all on your feed. Her work is more than statement dresses that you can slip on for photos, it has a deeper and more intentional theme.
“For a while, I’ve been creating a new style of sensual womenswear. Specifically, knitwear. This empowers you. Short, see-through and long, open-back dresses, colors and patterns that would otherwise feel kitsch or cheap, or what one would perhaps even think of as anti-feminist—in my head, I see it the opposite way,” the 30-year-old creative says. Einer states that Einer’s provocative knit and crochet tops are designed to help women realize their power. “My idea behind [Roberta Einer] is that we’re selling a dream—a woman you could be; only then you realize you already are her.”
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Roberta Einer Bianca Knit Maxi Dress Violet
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Roberta Einer Angel Mini Dress
Lily Yeung
(Image credit to Lily Yeung
Yarn the color of a verdant forest floor, webbed knitting akin to a spider’s web, felted wool resembling a cocoon plucked freshly from a tree branch—perusing Lily Yeung’s (opens in a new tab It is clear that nature is an important theme in her work. Yeung describes her knitwear brand as “organic shapes and lines realized during walks in nature and memories about interactions with water, earth and air translate into my work subconsciously.” But beyond just a point of influence, the London and Los Angeles–based designer intimately understands and respects the natural world.
Yeung, who is Navajo-Chinese and is of Chinese descent, says that materials can have so many stories and power. They are a way to connect with a place or land, and to incite memory and emotion. So, letting the natural beauty of these materials—like naturally-dyed fibers and Navajo churro wool—influence my designs makes me feel more connected to the land. Yeung adds, “I believe that thoughtful choices about the materials can open up discussions around sustainability, indigenous histories and cultural significance surrounding them.”
Yeung has always valued intention. Yeung was raised in fashion and used traditional Indigenous crafts and textiles to connect to her roots. It was during the pandemic when she discovered crochet and decided to focus her efforts on a knitwear brand. Lily Yeung will officially launch in 2021.
Yeung has made sure that each collection retains her brand’s iconic, emotional core. “That personal touch and physicality in knitwear, especially crochet, is what makes it unique,” Yeung, a self-taught knitting expert, says. “The imperfections and subtle expressions left behind in the textiles give a soulfulness to a garment that makes it feel human—and people connect to that. A garment that feels authentic and unique stands out in a crowded fashion market.
Lily Yeung Salt Water Gown
Aisling Camps
Image credit: Mary Kang, Aisling Camps.
You know that life is not always what you expect. The old saying, “We plan, but God laughs,” is true. Aisling Camps (opens in a new tabThis sentiment is very familiar to the founder of the eponymous knitwear company. Camps left New York City in 2013, after years of hard work and perseverance trying to get into the fashion industry. Even with two degrees under her belt—one in mechanical engineering from Columbia University and a Bachelor of Arts in Fashion Design from the Fashion Institute of Technology—the artist couldn’t secure a visa sponsorship to secure her stay in the United States.
“I had big plans but my circumstances dictated that I needed to change,” she says. Camps was grateful for every bit of life’s unexpected turn that she had to make. It taught me that I’m not in control, and made me accept that. She also shared that she was reintroduced as an adult to her country and culture and was able see the beauty and wonder of Trinidad in a completely new light.
What does a Caribbean knitwear designer do for the climate? She says, “Logically, we don’t wear wool sweaters in tropics.” I was a knitwear specialist and had a new clientele who required clothing for hot, humid conditions. Also, we’re not a conservative bunch in the Caribbean—[my work] required to display a little sex appeal. The design perspective that emphasizes scandalous knits with cutouts and loosely-woven macrame to flash skin started to emerge.
Camps was able to win the green card lottery in 2014, and she returned to NYC shortly after launching her knitwear label. Her second stint in New York proved to be a blessing. Her sexy sweaters were noticed by celebrities such as Gabrielle Union, Cardi B and Tracee Ellis. Aisling Camps was officially “It” after a collaboration with Pyer Moss, Kerby Jean Raymond’s Pyer Moss.
Camps told Marie Claire that knitwear has a rich history. However, most of it is European. Traditional knitwear designers tend not to use classic shapes or stitch designs. This appeals to her, but she doesn’t find this appealing to her. Even though she’s now based in Brooklyn’s Dumbo studio, Camps is still a big fan of Trinidad. Here, she creates most of the brand’s macrame pieces and crochet by hand. “Why do I create work that has been done before? Especially when it doesn’t have any cultural connections to it?” I don’t find it exciting. I [want] You can try something new without having to conform to the existing rules. It is supposed To knit a sweater.
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Aisling Camps Collarbone Cold Shoulder Shawl
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Top in Kora Cutout Cotton Blend
Nadia Wire
(Image credit to Nadia Wire
Ambitious feels too small of a word to describe Copenhagen-based designer Nadia Wire (opens in a new tab. Central Saint Martins graduate and iconoclast, Peter Pilotto, Iris Van Herpen, and StineGoya are just a few of the big-league names on her resume. Marie Claire begins her conversation by saying, “I’ve always known that I wanted to become a fashion designer.”
The Danish designer explained that she wanted to create a brand in which the manufacturing was integrated into the brand’s structure. This would allow her to work closely with the production. Naturally, her solution was to create everything from scratch. “I set up my knitting factory in 2020 and created a team as well as a production site before I launched my brand. The founder states that it was crucial to her that all aspects of the company work together under one roof. Her brand’s clothing—think graphic sweater vests (opens in a new tab, transparent ribbed dresses, and 3D-knit jacquard trousers—is all made-to-order in the Denmark-based factory.
Wire explained that thoughtful production helps reduce waste as eco-consciousness is a key tenet for her eponymous label. She states, “But, when you work as a fashion designer, it’s not possible to claim you produce sustainable collections.” She argues that adding inventory to an already overcrowded and overproduced system is anti-sustainable. The designer still tries to reduce the impact of her brand.
When designing new collections, I always refer to my textile archive for inspiration. Wire explains that every collection is built upon something already in existence. She also says that scraps are not allowed as waste. “We also code and program all our fabrics directly to the knitting machine, which means every product comes out of the machine fully-fashioned”—or, in layman’s terms, without excess material.
Even though her brand is two years old, it’s astonishing how much Wire accomplished. However, she isn’t satisfied. The knitwear pioneer has big plans to expand her production plant and keep her closed-loop manufacturing. She says she doesn’t know the future beyond that.
“I am on an ongoing knitting adventure that will continue to develop in directions I cannot anticipate!” I am trying to not only honor knitwear, but also to challenge it. Knitwear can be expanded and explored beyond what is already known. What good is fashion if we have no fun?”.
Nadia Wire Secret Stripes Dress
Nadia Wire Squiggle Trouser
Zankov
(Image credit: Zankov)
In the colorful and kaleidoscopic world of Zankov (opens in a new tabMinimalism doesn’t exist. Geometric prints that purposefully play a trick on your eye and five-shades-at-a-time color blocking reign supreme under founder Henry Zankov’s (opens in a new tab purview. You’ll be closest to neutrality with the knitwear label’s version of argyle: A clownish, clown-ish diamond jacquard design in camel and offwhite with pops black.
The designer says that color has the power of transformation and print can be its playground. She first became interested in knitwear design while working for labels such as Donna Karan and Diane von Furstenberg. “I want to create a visual language by injecting natural fibers, yarns with strong use of color and patterns. [with Zankov] It is a well-known and long-lasting product. And this, to me, can become timeless—something you always go back to as a foundation and then build upon that.”
Zankov was launched in 2019 and has established itself as a ready to wear brand. It values whimsy, quality craftsmanship, and, as you would expect from any luxury knitwear label. “I prefer to work closely with smaller producers that are still family owned. The St. Petersburg-born designer describes the Alpaca Mill in Prato, Italy, their hand knitter based in Brooklyn, and the women’s cooperative located in the Lot region in France—who raise special heritage wool that we used in our Fall/Winter 20222 handknits,” Zankov details.
The FIT graduate is also a symbol of fashion’s dopamine-dressing trend. You can see his multicolored polo shirts, chunky and comfortable cardigans, as well as his tubular, Piet Mondrian-esque, tubular dresses that inspire a sense hope.
According to the Russian-American designer, “Fashion has the power to affect how we feel.” So when I feel happy or excited about a color or silhouette, it means that I must make it possible for others to feel the same. [happiness] You can also find them here.
Slowly, but surely, Zankov is building a capsule wardrobe that maximalists can invest in. One vibrant, in-your face turtleneck at time. His investment ideas include: “What I love is knitwear is that it feels timeless, hand-touched, and precious. It’s like an heirloom.” “Creating something out of a tiny thread of yarn is an exciting process, with endless technical and visual possibilities.
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Zankov Kevin Paneled Jacquard-Knit Organic Cotton T-Shirt
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Zankov Antibes Striped Open-Knit Organic Cotton Mini Dress