Digital textile printing has made it possible to reduce factory footprints and eliminate ancillary equipment. This simplification is facilitated by wet-on-wet print. WhatTheyThink contributor Debbie McKeegan dives into one-step wet-onwet textile printing solutions.
The industry continues to rationalize the print process with each new iteration. This leads to a simplified workflow that is unified and offers a one-step solution.
Recent developments have reduced the size of the factory for technology and also the need for ancillary equipment (if not eliminated altogether). It is generally acknowledged that wet-onwet printing has been a major factor in simplifying the process.
Typically, in digital textile printing, the ink is printed onto a pre-coated fabric—this is known as wet-on-dry printing. Wet-on-wet—a term carried over from rotary textile printing—is a technique used in the digital textile industry to apply ink or dye onto fabric in a continuous process.
This method allows for better color blending and ink penetration because the fabric remains moist and pre-coated throughout the entire printing process. Direct-to-fabric is another name for this technique, which allows ink to be applied directly onto the fabric surface without any additional steps such as pre-treatment and post-treatment.
In a global printed textile market—analog and digital—that is predicted to exceed $260 billion by 2025 (Grand View Research), pigment printing, at 57% of the total, is the largest individual ink component, overshadowing any other ink type, be it acid, reactive, disperse, or dye sublimation.
You might ask: why this figure—57%—is not reflected in digital textile printing sector?
Digital sublimation inks are expected to continue to dominate the market through 2022, and to grow to a market share of more than 53% in 2030. (Research&Markets) The adoption of digital pigments has historically been slowed by issues with color vibrancy and fastness, and technical challenges with speed. Recent technical innovations and pigment applications may improve these numbers in the short-term.
Many machinery manufacturers are focusing on digitally printing non-coated fabric in one step. This could be the key to increasing adoption.
JK Inks and their 4k pigment ink, which provides excellent wash-and-rub fastnesses as well as decent lightfastness, has recently made great progress in this industry. The inks, however, are only compatible with Kyocera heads and the tests are all on cotton.
Ink formulations cannot provide a complete solution. Wet-on wet may simplify workflow and the printing process, but its technical execution can be challenging. Machine engineers and chemists will have to overcome this challenge. It’s from the heart of these elusive R&D departments that the latest innovations will emerge. To be continued…
Kornit Digital was one of the first innovators in wet-onwet printing, whether it be direct-to garment or direct-to fabric. Their launch of the Presto system in 2019, marked a major shift for their technology. It continues to improve with impressive results.
“When we first unveiled our industry-leading Presto MAX in 2021, the intent was to change the world of fashion and textiles forever, tapping into the power of on-demand digital decoration to set new standards for sustainability and creative fulfilment,” said Ronen Samuel, CEO at Kornit Digital. “We’re proud to highlight how Kornit anticipates the needs of an industry facing new opportunities sparked by digital transformation, while addressing mandates to cut waste and overproduction. Continuous innovation across our production systems, as well as supporting automation technologies, software, and partnerships, ensure customers achieve the highest possible return on investment, receive best-in-class support for their operational and business needs, and prepare to capitalize on trends shaping fashion and textiles for years to come.”
Kornit, as expected, has protected its work over the past few decades. Many of their 130+ different patents relate to issues such as wet-onwet printing, chemical compositions, and methods.
The digital wet on wet process is a game changer for the pigment printing sector. All stakeholders in the digital sector are now looking to on-demand printing as the future. For this to happen, the technology must go beyond rotary and create a seamless architecture to support multiple textile industries at varying scales.
The printed textiles industry is massive and offers a dynamic global market with a rich legacy. It’s also a market that must adapt if it is to meet its environmental responsibilities and obligations—and it’s primed for disruption.
Optimum Digital (Optimum Digital), Kyocera, MS Printing Solutions (MS Printing Solutions), D.Gen Aleph Atexco EFI Reggiani and MS Printing Solutions have all invested into one-step technology.
Kyocera’s FOREARTH digital fabric printer, which was recently introduced, uses a continuous-cycle discharge to disperse their proprietary blend of pigment ink, liquid pre-treatment, and finishing agent all in one pass. This results in a system which can print onto many fabrics including cotton and silk, polyester and nylon, as well as blended fabrics.
EFI Reggiani ecoTERRA also offers a complete solution for pigment water-based printing, which does not require auxiliary equipment for pre and post treatment. EFI Reggiani EcoTERRA, with its enhanced polymerization unit and finishing unit is said to offer a more tactile fabric experience.
The Lario Compact is currently in development at MS Printing Solutions. It uses nine printheads: two for pretreatment, six color and one binder. This allows the machine to achieve a speed of 75 meters per second in one pass.
All of this has led to the conclusion that digital pigment printing will be able to move from its discontinuous process, to a method more similar to its rotary competitors, where fabric is printed, softened and cured in a single step. The final product is then ready to cut and sew.
With the rapid advancement of print technology, it’s now possible to imagine a future in which the use of pigment printing with its multi-fiber and blended printing capabilities will reach new heights for adoption within the digital textile industry, currently dominated by reactive and dye sublimation printing.